For many rod builders the term epoxy gets thrown around a lot. Some might say epoxy, referring to the bonding adhesive when mounting handles and reel seats and they might also say epoxy when talking about thread finish. Well, are they wrong? The answer is no. Although it might confuse some newer builders, the two-part epoxy adhesives and the two-part epoxy thread finish are both epoxies.
I am not going to drag this one out but going to call out all the various brands and products we carry to condense all the information into one location. Keep in mind, everyone has their preference and opinion on which ones works best but trust me when I say, I personally have tried them all and when the proper steps are followed, you will get excellent results every time.
Bonding Epoxy
Some might call it epoxy glue and other bonding epoxy but lets walk though all the types of epoxies that are adhesives.
By far the best-selling epoxy in rod building is Pro Paste. It is a two-part, paste epoxy and known for its easy of working and unbreakable bond.
Pro Paste stays exactly where you apply it, eliminating the mess typically associated with liquid adhesives. It is perfect for bonding cork and synthetic handles, metal and graphite reel seats, ferrules, butt caps, hosels, cork rings, and nearly any other material used in rod building and fishing rod repair. Additionally, Pro Paste serves as an excellent lubricant for installing foam grips. Its easy-to-use 1:1 mixing ratio ensures quick application and effortless cleanup.
As popular as the regular Pro Paste is, they also have a fast-set formula. ProPaste Fast Set provides a quick-curing, durable bond while maintaining the same superior properties as the original ProPaste. With an average set time of just 15 minutes, this paste adhesive offers a fast and reliable solution for efficient rod building and repairs. Please listen when I say that 15 minutes goes by quicker than you think. So, if you do not want to feel rushed, stay with the regular set Pro Paste.
Pro Paste Pro Tip
A tip I want to pass along when working with any two-part epoxies but especially the fast-set ones. The epoxy works off a chemical reaction that creates heat, which cures the epoxy. The more heat, the faster it will set and cure. So, if you want to extend the working time of your epoxy, spear it out and do not pile it all up in one area on your mixing board. The more epoxy piled up on itself, the more heat it will generate and the shorter the working time.
Liquid Bonding Epoxy
Ok, so what if you do not want the epoxy to stay where you put it like Pro Paste? Well, that is where Pro Glu comes in. Not only is it in a liquid form, it also maintains a slight bit of flexibility where as other bonding epoxies dry hard as a rock.
Why would you want some flexibility? Let’s say you have a rod blank that bends deep into the handle section like a slow pitch jigging rod or a delicate flyrod. Having too rigid of an epoxy can wreak havoc on your blank and components.
In addition to regular rod assembly this Pro Glu can be the ace up any rod builder's sleeve when it comes to repair work. Speaking of repair work, if you have not watched Mud Hole Live's Reel Seat Repair episode #86, you owe it to yourself as a rod builder and as you will see, Pro Glu is the star of the show!
As I mentioned before regarding fast-set versions, this Pro Glu has a 5-minutes fast set version. When it says 5-minutes, it means it.
With one of the biggest names in rod building, you can be sure Flex Coat has a bonding epoxy. For all the OG rod builders out there that love their products, we carry it and sell a bunch of it as well.
Similar to the Pro Glu it is a professional-grade, clear, high-strength adhesive provides a waterproof bond, making it ideal for securing reel seats, ferrules, gimbals, handles, grips, roller tip tops, cork rings, butt caps, and general repairs. With two options, a 5 minute or 20 minutes cure time and full strength achieved in as little as 2 hours, it ensures a reliable and efficient bonding process.
Keep in mind when dealing with bonding epoxies, it is much easier to mix very small amounts for repair jobs, lure building or even fixing something around the house! You would be surprised at the things I have fixed using Pro Paste!
Non Rod Building Adhesives
So, if you have watched live or read previous blogs there are times where I talk about what NOT to do as much as I try to give the correct way of doing things. Since, this question comes up a lot, I want to address the discussion about using non-rod building adhesives. When I say non-rod building, I am referring to some of the items you might find at a hardware or auto parts store. There are tons of brands and different ones but I want provide a word of caution, whereas many can be used in the rod building world, there are ones that should not be used.
Although Devcon is not your typical rod builder's epoxy, we carry it at Mud Hole and it is a trusted name in adhesives. I say this because not only can you buy it here but you can most likely find it at your local store when you get in a pinch and need something immediately.
Although not an epoxy, a favorite of rod builders that do custom cork handles is Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue. It is the first one-part wood glue with water cleanup that has been proven to be waterproof. You can find all the Titebond products at most hardware stores. No only does it work great to glue cork rings together, you can also mix it with cork dust to fill voids when repairing grips.
Lastly, we also reccommend Weldwood Contact Cement for those working with EVA handles. Follow the directions, use two coats and let each side get tacky before sticking EVA together. Be aware, once contact cement sticks, it is stuck.
The Do Not Use List
A few I will mention on the do not use list. First, Gorilla Glue, it has a unique expanding action that is like foam and can ruin a nice rod build by bulging out of the tight tolerances. Second, any super glues, they create a weird chalky finish and virtually impossible to clean up. This Blog talks about the Reasons to Avoid Super Glue. Finally, although some might think since it says Marine Sealant, do not use 3M 5200 or 4200. It is a permanent one-part polyurethane but it is a mess to work with, not easy to clean up and takes a long time to fully cure. Not to mention it is very expensive, so it is an all around no.
Hopefully this helps when choosing to stock your rod building workshop with a complete selection of adhesives.
